Bosch Stove Repair in North York

How much does Bosch stove repair cost in North York?

Bosch stove repair in North York typically runs $140–$520 all-in, depending on the fault. The most common Bosch call-out is gas burner clicks but won't light ($150–$300). Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and repairs are backed by a 90-day warranty.

Diagnostic: $149.95, credited 100% toward your repair
Warranty: 90-day on parts & workmanship
Availability: Same-day & next-day appointments available

Prices in CAD for North York; typical ranges — your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work. Updated June 2026.

Most Bosch stove faults in North York come down to a handful of parts — and the majority are worth repairing rather than replacing a 13–15 years appliance. Anthony is a Red Seal certified technician who carries the common stove parts on the van, so most North York jobs are diagnosed and fixed in a single visit.

Bosch Stove repair costs in North York

Honest, all-in ranges for common jobs. Every visit starts with a flat $149.95 diagnostic that is credited 100% toward your repair — so you never pay it twice.

Bosch Stove repair costs in North York (CAD) — typical all-in ranges, June 2026
Problem	Parts	Labour	All-in
Gas burner clicks but won't light	$0–$90	$120–$190	$150–$300
Gas burner clicks constantly	$0–$120	$120–$190	$150–$330
Electric element not heating	$25–$160	$120–$190	$150–$350
Induction element not working / fault code	$0–$320	$140–$220	$150–$520
Surface element stuck on high	$25–$160	$130–$200	$160–$360
Weak or yellow gas flame	$0–$80	$120–$190	$150–$280
Spark module / igniter failure	$40–$160	$120–$200	$160–$360
Control knob / igniter switch fault	$15–$140	$120–$190	$140–$330
Diagnostic (credited to the repair)			$149.95

Ranges are estimates for common North York jobs; your exact quote is confirmed on-site before any work begins. Prices in CAD, updated June 2026.

How your repair works

Four simple steps, no surprises.

1

Book

Call or request a callback. Same-day & next-day appointments available.

2

Diagnose

A flat $149.95 diagnostic pinpoints the real fault.

3

Approve

You get an upfront all-in quote first — diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

4

Repaired

Fixed with OEM parts, backed by a 90-day warranty.

Common Bosch Stove problems & what we check

Tap any problem for the likely causes, what is safe to check yourself, and what it costs.

Gas burner clicks but won't light

Gas burner clicks but won't light: You hear the igniter clicking and may smell a little gas, but the burner never catches a flame (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: burner won't ignite, clicking no flame, gas stove not lighting, sparks but no flame

Likely causes

Food debris or spilled liquid clogging the burner ports or the igniter gap (gas-only) (Most common)
Wet or misaligned burner cap/head sitting crooked on the base after cleaning (gas-only) (Common)
Worn or cracked spark electrode / igniter, or a corroded igniter wire (gas-only) (Common)
Weak or failing spark module so the spark is too weak to ignite (gas-only) (Occasional)
Clogged burner orifice or a partly closed manifold gas valve restricting gas flow (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Turn the burner off, let it cool, then clean the burner ports with a straightened paperclip or pin and a stiff brush.
Lift off the burner cap and head, dry them fully, and reseat them squarely — a cap sitting crooked is a very common no-light.
Make sure the igniter electrode (the small ceramic-tipped post) is dry and free of food crust.

✖ Leave to a technician

If you smell gas that doesn't clear in seconds, stop: shut off the burner, ventilate, leave it to a TSSA-certified gas technician, and if the smell is strong leave the home and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.
Do not work on the gas valve, manifold, orifices, or supply line — TSSA-certified only.
Electrode, igniter-wire, and spark-module replacement is a technician job (gas + electrical).

If you wait: Repeated clicking dumps unburned gas into the kitchen until it lights; a chronic no-light points to an electrode or module fault that gets worse and can leave gas pooling before ignition.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1 (electrodes/modules commonly stocked)
Typical all-in: $150–$300
Repair vs. replace: Almost always worth repairing — cleaning, an electrode, or a spark module is inexpensive vs. a new range.

Gas burner clicks constantly

Gas burner clicks constantly: The igniter keeps clicking even after a burner lights, or it clicks on its own with every burner off (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: igniter won't stop clicking, clicking after lighting, all burners clicking, ticking nonstop

Likely causes

Moisture under the burner caps after cleaning or a boil-over (gas-only) (Most common)
A burner cap or head seated crooked, so the spark keeps arcing (gas-only) (Common)
A stuck or worn igniter switch under a control knob holding the spark circuit closed (gas-only) (Common)
Food debris bridging the spark electrode to the burner (gas-only) (Occasional)
Failing spark module misfiring across all burners (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Turn every burner fully off, then dry under the caps — let the cooktop air-dry an hour after spills or cleaning.
Lift each cap and head and reseat it squarely; a crooked cap is the usual constant-click cause.
Clean food crust off the electrodes with a dry toothbrush.

✖ Leave to a technician

A constantly clicking module still energizes the spark — if you also smell gas, shut the burners off, ventilate, and call a TSSA-certified tech; strong smell, leave and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.
Igniter-switch and spark-module replacement is a technician job.
No DIY on the gas valve or manifold — TSSA-certified only.

If you wait: Constant arcing wears the spark electrode and module and can pit the burner; left long enough it becomes a no-light.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $150–$330
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — often just drying/reseating, otherwise an inexpensive switch or module.

Electric element not heating

Electric element not heating: One surface element stays cold while others work — the indicator light may glow but the element never heats (electric coil or smooth-top radiant only).

Also described as: coil not getting hot, burner cold, element dead, radiant element no heat

Likely causes

Burned-out surface element (coil or radiant) (electric-only) (Most common)
Failed surface-element receptacle / "plug-in" block on coil ranges, often heat-damaged (electric-only) (Common)
Failed infinite switch (the burner control) not sending power to the element (electric-only) (Common)
Broken wiring or a burnt terminal feeding the element (electric-only) (Occasional)
Failed control board or relay on glass-top models (electric-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

On a coil range, swap a known-good coil into the dead position — if it heats, the original coil is bad; if it still won't heat, suspect the receptacle or switch.
Reseat the coil firmly into its receptacle; a loose plug-in is a common cause.
Confirm the element isn't blistered, cracked, or showing a burnt spot.

✖ Leave to a technician

Receptacle, infinite-switch, and wiring repairs run on 240V — technician job (shock/arc-flash risk).
On glass smooth-tops, removing the cooktop to reach radiant elements and the control board is a technician job.

If you wait: A heat-damaged receptacle or terminal can arc and char the wiring — a cheap element/switch now avoids a burnt harness later.

Time on site: 45 min–1.5 hours
Visits: Usually 1 (common elements/switches stocked)
Typical all-in: $150–$350
Repair vs. replace: Almost always worth repairing — elements, receptacles, and infinite switches are inexpensive.

Induction element not working / fault code

Induction element not working / fault code: An induction zone won't heat, flashes an error/fault code, or shuts off after a few seconds — sometimes with a fan running underneath (induction cooktop only).

Also described as: induction zone dead, induction error code, induction not detecting pan, induction shuts off

Likely causes

Incompatible or off-centre cookware — induction needs magnetic (ferrous) flat-bottom pans (induction-only) (Most common)
Overheat shutdown from a blocked cooling fan or dust-clogged intake under the cooktop (induction-only) (Common)
Failed induction coil or power board (inverter) for that zone (induction-only) (Common)
Cracked glass or a failed pan-detection sensor (induction-only) (Occasional)
Supply/voltage fault — a tripped breaker leg or loose 240V connection (induction-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Test with a pan a magnet sticks to, centred on the zone — aluminum, copper, and glass won't work on induction.
Note the exact fault code shown and check the breaker — induction cooktops often run on a double-pole 240V breaker.
Make sure the under-cabinet vents/intakes aren't blocked and the cooktop has cooled before retrying.

✖ Leave to a technician

Coil, inverter board, and sensor diagnosis on 240V is a technician job — these store high voltage even unplugged.
A cracked glass top should be taken out of service; replacement is a technician job.

If you wait: A zone that overheats and shuts down repeatedly can stress the power board; a blocked fan left dirty leads to repeat shutdowns and board failure.

Time on site: 1–1.75 hours
Visits: Usually 1; board/coil order = 2
Typical all-in: $150–$520
Repair vs. replace: Cookware/fan issues: easy repair. Coil or power-board failure on an 8+ yr cooktop: weigh the board cost against replacement.
Error codes: Bosch/Thermador "E" + code (hold key to reveal)

Surface element stuck on high

Surface element stuck on high: A burner heats to full power regardless of the knob setting, or won't turn off until you pull the breaker (electric ranges/cooktops).

Also described as: burner won't turn down, element only high, can't control heat, burner won't shut off

Likely causes

Failed infinite switch with welded/stuck contacts feeding constant power (electric-only) (Most common)
Failed surface-element relay on a glass-top control board (electric-only) (Common)
Melted/shorted wiring or a shorted element grounding to the chassis (electric-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Turn the burner off; if it stays hot, switch off the breaker to the range and leave it off until repaired.
Confirm the knob is fully seated on its shaft and the markings line up — a slipped knob can mimic this.

✖ Leave to a technician

A burner that won't shut off is a fire risk — kill the breaker and book a technician; do not keep using it.
Infinite-switch, relay, and wiring repairs run on 240V — technician job.

If you wait: A stuck-on element is a live fire risk and can scorch cookware, the cooktop, and adjacent cabinetry; the welded switch or relay won't recover on its own.

Time on site: 1–1.5 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $160–$360
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — an infinite switch or relay is inexpensive relative to a new range.

Weak or yellow gas flame Same-day

Weak or yellow gas flame: The burner flame is low, lazy, yellow or orange instead of crisp blue, sometimes leaving soot on the cookware (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: orange flame, yellow flame, lazy flame, low flame, sooty burner, uneven flame

Likely causes

Clogged burner ports from food, grease, or boil-over residue (gas-only) (Most common)
Misaligned or wet burner cap/head sitting off its seat (gas-only) (Common)
Air-shutter mixture out of adjustment, or a clogged/partly blocked orifice (gas-only) (Common)
Wrong orifice/regulator for the fuel — e.g. an LP/natural-gas conversion not done (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Let the burner cool, then clear each port with a pin and brush off grease — a clean blue flame usually returns.
Reseat a dry, correctly aligned burner cap and head.
A steady yellow flame on every burner after a recent install can mean the unit was set up for the wrong gas — note it for the tech.

✖ Leave to a technician

Air-shutter adjustment, orifice cleaning/changes, and any LP/natural-gas conversion are TSSA-certified work — not DIY.
A yellow flame can produce carbon monoxide — if you have headaches, nausea, or a CO alarm sounds, ventilate, leave, and call 911; have a working CO alarm in the kitchen area.
No DIY on the gas valve, manifold, or regulator.

If you wait: Incomplete combustion sooty burners, blackened pots, and a CO risk that rises the longer it goes uncorrected.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $150–$280
Repair vs. replace: Almost always worth repairing — usually a clean and air-shutter set, occasionally an orifice.

Spark module / igniter failure

Spark module / igniter failure: No burner sparks at all (no clicking anywhere), or sparking is weak and erratic across multiple burners (gas range/cooktop only).

Also described as: no spark any burner, igniter dead, no clicking, spark generator failed, all igniters out

Likely causes

Failed spark module (the spark generator that feeds every igniter) (gas-only) (Most common)
Moisture or a short in the wiring harness feeding the igniters (gas-only) (Common)
A stuck igniter switch holding the circuit so the module can't reset between burners (gas-only) (Common)
No power to the range or a tripped outlet/breaker (the spark needs 120V) (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Confirm the range is plugged in and the outlet/breaker has power — a gas range still needs 120V for the igniters and clock.
If only some burners spark, dry the cooktop and reseat the caps; whole-cooktop no-spark points to the module.
You can still light the burners with a long match or lighter while waiting for service if there is no gas smell.

✖ Leave to a technician

Spark-module and harness replacement is a technician job (mains voltage + gas appliance).
If you smell gas at any point, don't use a flame — ventilate, shut the burners off, and call a TSSA-certified tech; strong smell, leave and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.

If you wait: A failing module often arcs and clicks erratically before it dies; left alone you lose ignition on all burners.

Time on site: 1–1.5 hours
Visits: Usually 1 (modules commonly stocked)
Typical all-in: $160–$360
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — a spark module restores ignition to every burner at once.

Control knob / igniter switch fault

Control knob / igniter switch fault: A knob spins loosely or feels wrong, the burner ignores the setting, or only the click/ignition fires when you turn it — gas or electric.

Also described as: knob spins freely, knob does nothing, switch behind knob broken, burner only one setting, knob won't turn

Likely causes

Cracked or stripped control knob slipping on its D-shaft (gas + electric) (Most common)
Failed igniter switch behind the knob on a gas range (no spark when turned) (gas-only) (Common)
Failed infinite switch behind the knob on an electric range (no/uncontrolled heat) (electric-only) (Common)
Failed gas valve under the knob — gas won't flow or won't throttle (gas-only) (Occasional)

✔ Safe to check yourself

Pull the knob and check the plastic collar and the metal shaft — a stripped collar is a cheap, owner-replaceable knob swap.
Confirm you're pushing in before turning if your range needs it, and that the knob is fully seated.

✖ Leave to a technician

Igniter-switch and infinite-switch replacement (behind the control panel) is a technician job — gas appliance and/or 240V.
Gas-valve replacement is TSSA-certified work — no DIY; if you smell gas, ventilate and call a TSSA-certified tech, strong smell leave and call Enbridge Gas (1-866-763-5427) or 911.

If you wait: A slipping knob can leave a gas burner half-open or an electric element on an unintended setting; a failing switch tends to get worse until the burner won't respond.

Time on site: 45 min–1.25 hours
Visits: Usually 1
Typical all-in: $140–$330
Repair vs. replace: Worth repairing — knobs and switches are inexpensive; weigh a gas-valve cost on a 13+ yr range.

Bosch stove parts we stock

Bosch ranges in Canada split into two service worlds that need naming before parts are ordered: gas slide-ins (representative HGI-prefix 800-series, verify by model tag) where sealed burners run off spark-ignition (no-light = igniter/electrode or its ignition switch, a sealed-burner job), and the increasingly common electric/induction 800-series (HEI/HII-prefix, verify by model tag) where surface faults are board/module-level on 10-digit BSH parts and the repair-vs-replace math has to be said out loud. The oven side is conventional across all three and runs on the BSH 00-prefix parts ecosystem — a common NTC cavity sensor is 00414152 (Bosch/Thermador oven temp sensor reading ~1080 ohms at room temp; discontinued on some models, so model-decode to the OEM-equivalent), the bake element is a shared BSH 00-prefix part confirmed against the model tag (e.g. 00791650), and the BSH E-code family tells you which circuit to chase. E118 is the NTC temperature-sensor read fault (control can't read the sensor) and E115 is the over-temperature trip (oven runs too hot, sensor/relay suspect); the dedicated sensor open/short codes are F31 (upper sensor) / F32 (lower sensor), tested at ~1080 ohms at the connector. E011 is an oven temperature-sensor (NTC) circuit fault on the shared BSH platform (clean and re-meter the probe ~1080 ohms; verify by model). E305 is model-dependent and must be decoded by model: on most ranges it is a communication / no-connection-between-baseplates fault (TCM ↔ control board, or TCM ↔ user-interface board) that often clears on a 5-minute breaker reset; on some models (e.g. HBL5651UC) it reads as a temperature-sensor short (grease contamination); on others it points at a self-clean door-lock fault. Do not treat E305 as a fixed temperature-sensor code.

Signature Bosch faults

Surface-burner spark-ignition failure (gas) — burner clicks but won't light, or one burner dead (most common (gas))
Oven temperature-sensor / bake-element faults — weak or no bake heat, or oven runs cold/over-temps; E118/E115/F31/F32 (common)
Induction generator / power-module faults — a zone or half the cooktop goes dead, often coded (platform-distinct)
Self-clean door-lock fault (model-decoded code) — lock won't engage/disengage after a self-clean cycle (classic)
Control-module / keypad faults — dead UI segments or relay/board errors (occasional)

Bosch stove OEM parts — reference numbers & price bands (CAD), June 2026
Part	OEM number	Price band
Oven NTC temperature sensor (thermistor, ~1080 ohms at room temp)	`00414152`	$60–$120
Surface burner spark igniter / electrode (gas)	`00418885`	$45–$95
Surface burner ignition head (gas cooktop/range)	`00189324`	$40–$85
Oven bake element (shared BSH, confirm by model)	`00791650`	$90–$170
Meat / oven food probe (sensor)	`00755060`	$90–$150
Induction power module / generator board (model-coded)	`00-prefix 10-digit — confirm by model/serial`	$280–$520

Error codes we see on Bosch stoves

E305: model-dependent — decode by model: most commonly a communication / no-connection-between-baseplates fault (TCM ↔ control board, or TCM ↔ user-interface board), often clears on a 5-minute breaker reset; reads as a temperature-sensor short on some models (e.g. HBL5651UC, grease contamination) and as a self-clean door-lock fault on others. The dedicated NTC short codes are F31/F32, not E305.
E118: oven temperature-sensor (NTC) circuit fault — control can't read the sensor; test sensor resistance (~1080 ohms at room temp) and inspect wiring
E115: oven over-temperature — runs too hot; weak/shorted NTC sensor or stuck element relay; let it cool before condemning the board
E011: oven temperature-sensor (NTC) circuit fault on the shared BSH/Thermador platform — clean and re-meter the probe (~1080 ohms at room temp) before condemning sensor 00414152; verify by model

Bosch notes

Induction "half the cooktop died" = one generator/power module serving those zones — accurate diagnosis halves the quote drama versus condemning the whole cooktop.
E115/E118 after a self-clean is the classic "self-clean broke my oven" story: the high-heat cycle exposes a grease-contaminated or weak 00414152 NTC sensor — we clean the probe/harness and re-test resistance (~1080 ohms at room temp), and let the oven cool, before condemning the board.
On gas slide-ins the no-light is almost always the igniter/electrode (00418885) or its ignition head (00189324), not the oven board — isolating cooktop ignition from oven electronics saves a needless control-board quote.
E305 is model-dependent: on most ranges it's a communication/baseplate fault that often clears on a 5-minute breaker reset, on some it's a sensor short, and on others a self-clean door-lock fault — so we decode it by model rather than assuming any one circuit.

Model families: Gas slide-ins — HGI-prefix 800-series (5 sealed burners); representative example, verify by model tag · Electric slide-ins — HEI-prefix 800-series; representative example, verify by model tag · Induction slide-ins — HII-prefix 800-series; representative example, verify by model tag · NIT (induction) / NGM (gas) cooktops · Benchmark wall-oven / cooking pairings

Warranty check: 1-yr standard.

Availability: Open via BSH distributor channel — 00-prefix 10-digit sensor/igniter/element parts (00414152 NTC sensor, 00418885 surface igniter, 00189324 ignition head, 00791650 bake element) stock GTA-wide through PartSelect/AppliancePartsPros/RepairClinic/Reliable Parts; induction power modules and some 800-series trim are dealer-ordered by model/serial. Gas slide-in work is TSSA-certified only. These are OEM reference numbers — exact fitment is confirmed against your model and serial on-site.

Why homeowners across North York call us

Repairs are carried out by Anthony, a Red Seal interprovincial journeyman who is 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified — backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day workmanship warranty on every job.

Red Seal technician

Work done by Anthony, a certified journeyman — not a rotating subcontractor.

Licensed & gas-certified

313A refrigeration licence and TSSA gas certification for safe, code-correct repairs.

$2,000,000+ insured

Fully insured for general liability, so your home is protected during the repair.

90-day warranty

Parts and workmanship are warrantied — if it's not right, we come back.

OEM parts on the van

Common parts are stocked, so most jobs are completed on the first visit.

Upfront pricing

A flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a quote before any work.

What our credentials mean for you

Red Seal Certified: The interprovincial standard for skilled trades — a journeyman who passed the national appliance-service exam.
313A Licensed: Ontario's refrigeration & air-conditioning systems mechanic licence — legally required to work on sealed cooling systems.
TSSA Certified: Technical Standards & Safety Authority gas certification — qualified to work safely on gas appliances.
ODP Certified: Ozone Depletion Prevention certification — licensed to handle refrigerants responsibly and to code.

Repair or replace your stove?

A simple rule of thumb: if the repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new unit and the appliance is near the end of its life, replacement may make more sense.

A stove typically lasts 13–15 years and costs $1,200–$2,500 to replace — so most faults under about $450 are worth fixing. We'll always tell you honestly when a repair isn't worth your money.

Keep your stove running

Simple habits that prevent the most common North York repairs.

Wipe up boil-overs and spills once the burners or elements have cooled — trapped food clogs gas ports and damages coil receptacles.
On gas ranges, keep the burner ports and igniter electrodes clean with a pin and a stiff brush so the flame stays crisp and blue.
Dry the cooktop fully after cleaning and reseat the burner caps and heads squarely — wet or crooked caps cause most no-light and constant-click problems.
On coil ranges, lift the coils to clean underneath and check the receptacles for heat damage rather than dragging cookware across them.
On smooth-top and induction cooktops, use flat-bottom cookware (magnetic/ferrous for induction) and a glass-cooktop cleaner — avoid abrasives that scratch the glass.
Keep the under-cooktop vents and cooling-fan intakes clear on induction units so the power boards don't overheat.
Replace a cracked or loose control knob early, before the D-shaft rounds off.
Have a TSSA-certified technician check the burner flames, air-shutter adjustment, and gas connections periodically — keep a working carbon-monoxide alarm in the kitchen area.

Servicing Stoves across North York

Homes here: North York runs to post-war bungalows and back-splits through Willowdale, Lansing and Bathurst Manor, with a dense condo spine along Yonge at Sheppard and Finch. The detached stock usually has a basement second fridge and a garage or side-door appliance run worth checking against replacement cost; the Yonge-corridor towers bring counter-depth and panel-ready units with service-elevator booking, much like downtown.

Parts & timing: Common parts typically same-day from our North York and Scarborough channels; North York Centre is minutes from the depot.

Water & disposal: North York is part of the City of Toronto, so the same municipal water supply and appliance disposal rules apply — see appliance repair in Toronto for the full water profile and disposal details.

Coverage: We cover North York end to end — Willowdale, Don Mills, Bayview Village, Lansing, Newtonbrook, Henry Farm, Hoggs Hollow and Bathurst Manor.

Towers & condos: North York Centre's Yonge towers — Sheppard, Finch and Empress Walk — book service elevators like downtown buildings; the surrounding detached neighbourhoods have driveway and garage access, so most North York calls outside the condo spine are straightforward same-day visits.

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Frequently asked questions

Why does my gas burner click but not light?

You hear the igniter clicking and may smell a little gas, but the burner never catches a flame (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Food debris or spilled liquid clogging the burner ports or the igniter gap (gas-only). A typical repair is $150–$300, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why does my gas stove keep clicking?

The igniter keeps clicking even after a burner lights, or it clicks on its own with every burner off (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Moisture under the burner caps after cleaning or a boil-over (gas-only). A typical repair is $150–$330, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my electric stove element not heating?

One surface element stays cold while others work — the indicator light may glow but the element never heats (electric coil or smooth-top radiant only). Most common cause: Burned-out surface element (coil or radiant) (electric-only). A typical repair is $150–$350, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my induction cooktop element not working?

An induction zone won't heat, flashes an error/fault code, or shuts off after a few seconds — sometimes with a fan running underneath (induction cooktop only). Most common cause: Incompatible or off-centre cookware — induction needs magnetic (ferrous) flat-bottom pans (induction-only). A typical repair is $150–$520, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my stove burner stuck on high?

A burner heats to full power regardless of the knob setting, or won't turn off until you pull the breaker (electric ranges/cooktops). Most common cause: Failed infinite switch with welded/stuck contacts feeding constant power (electric-only). A typical repair is $160–$360, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why is my gas flame weak or yellow?

The burner flame is low, lazy, yellow or orange instead of crisp blue, sometimes leaving soot on the cookware (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Clogged burner ports from food, grease, or boil-over residue (gas-only). A typical repair is $150–$280, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why won't any of my gas burners spark?

No burner sparks at all (no clicking anywhere), or sparking is weak and erratic across multiple burners (gas range/cooktop only). Most common cause: Failed spark module (the spark generator that feeds every igniter) (gas-only). A typical repair is $160–$360, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Why doesn't my stove knob control the burner?

A knob spins loosely or feels wrong, the burner ignores the setting, or only the click/ignition fires when you turn it — gas or electric. Most common cause: Cracked or stripped control knob slipping on its D-shaft (gas + electric). A typical repair is $140–$330, including the $149.95 diagnostic credited 100% toward your repair.

Do you charge for the diagnostic?

The diagnostic is a flat $149.95, and it is credited 100% toward your repair — so if you go ahead with the fix, it isn't an extra charge.

How soon can you come out?

Same-day & next-day appointments available across North York. Call (647) 490-7878 and we'll give you the next available slot.

Are you licensed and insured?

Yes. Repairs are performed by Anthony, who is Red Seal Certified, 313A Licensed, TSSA Certified, ODP Certified, and the work is backed by $2,000,000+ general liability insurance and a 90-day warranty.

Do you use genuine parts?

Yes — we fit OEM parts and stock the common ones on the van, so most repairs are completed in a single visit.

Do you service Bosch stoves?

Yes — Bosch stoves are one of the brands we work on across North York, with OEM parts stocked for first-visit fixes.

Need your Bosch stove fixed in North York?

Same-day & next-day appointments available. Flat $149.95 diagnostic, credited 100% toward your repair, and a 90-day warranty on every repair.

Call (647) 490-7878